Bicycle Club

Due to my hectic daily schedule of running between class and my lab, I have started riding my bike around Charlottesville for the first time.  I’ve had this bike with me at school for the past 3 years, but never really rode it because a) I’m terrified of getting hit by a car and b) I never really felt the need to.  But now, biking has become a necessity and I’ve found that I actually really enjoy it.  It’s fun and feels like I’m getting a work out whenever I go anywhere (ooh, my booty muscles be burnin’!).

Here’s a pic of me and lil’ Miss Sunshine:

IMG_3229
*this was totally not staged*

Siq.  And I haven’t gotten hit by a car yet (though I’ve had a couple close calls :o).

On another note, Hound Ears is this weekend!!!! I’m super psyched!!!!

I went home this past weekend to renew my driver’s license and got to climb at Sportrock for a couple days.  My sessions were not very structured, but I felt like I got a lot out of them because the problems are so much burlier there than at Peak.  I worked through a lot of powerful moves and tried to get out of route/hesitation mode and more into GOGOGO mode.  I am going to Peak tomorrow where I will try and do some power endurance in the boulder area and then probably head up to the systems board to work on big moves.  Wednesday will entail cardio and core, then Thursday I will probably just do an easy run.  Friday I leave for Boone!  AHHHH!!!!!

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5 weeks into school now.  I just had my first two exams on Friday right after which I left for the Craggin’ Classic.  I was a little nervous because I definitely have been lacking the same motivation for school that I’ve had in years past, and I mostly just focused on getting out to West Virginia.  But luckily enough, I returned to class today to find that I had gotten a 95 on one of my exams (other exam grade hasn’t been returned), woooo!

It is definitely challenging staying psyched to train, especially because I just feel like I’m getting fat and weak regardless of how hard I try. Just kidding. Sorta. But it is starting to seem like I might actually be able to pull off this doing-well-in-school-while-climbing-hard deal.

At the same time, money is definitely starting to become a concern… I looked at my checking account for the first time in a while and I’m spending literally hundreds of dollars on gas.  And I don’t know how sustainable this will be while I don’t have any income source… I think I will make it through the rest of the school year, but I definitely need to have a job lined up as soon as I graduate.

Hound Ears in two weeks, fall break in three weeks.  Lots of climbing to look forward to which means lots of training to make sure I make it worth the money to travel to climb!

Might I just say…

that it feels SO GOOD outside!!! Fall is finally coming and I’m getting psychedddd.

I feel like I have a good set up right now with my training.  In each part of my regimen, there is plenty of room for progress.

Cardio:

I went on a run today and I actually enjoyed it rather than getting exhausted by the heat after two steps and giving up after a mile.  There was a route I went on last Wednesday and I did it again today but ran about a half mile more.  I’ll probably try and add more to the route and also run it faster.  Today I ran 3 miles at about an 8:30 pace which I think is a pretty good start.

I’m starting to keep track of how far I run when I do my intervals on the track.  Last time I ran a little over a mile, we will see how far I go next time (maybe tomorrow!).

I just watch climbing vids while I’m on the elliptical, so I’m not too concerned with progress on that.  I do it pretty much purely for calorie burnage since I’m not nearly as active as I was this summer.

Core:

I’ve been keeping pretty detailed records of my leg lift count and TRX sets.  Obviously progress can be made with those by just an increase in volume.

Arms:

Last week I did my first set of I’s, Y’s, and T’s of the semester!  I did them with 5lb weights but it definitely felt like I could do heavier.  Next time I do them I will bump it up to 7.5lbs.

Keeping detailed records of how many max pull ups I do, how many Frenchies I do, and how many assisted one arms I do.  Again, progress will be easy to see as an increase in volume.

I’m going to the New this weekend and I am really excited to get outside and to kind of escape school for a couple days!  Hoping to feel my training coming through!

Bye Bye Booze

Whilst leaned over my toilet this morning for a third round of dry heaving/puking water because I had nothing in my stomach, I made this executive decision:

no more

No more!!! Or at least a very, very modified version of my current drinking habits.  As in, like 1 or 2 beers per MONTH with dinner or something.  There are multiple reasons behind this decision:

  1. My body: Although my stomach did feel very flat after the assault on the toilet, at the end of the day, binge drinking is not healthy.  In fact, it’s poisonous.  I have been working so hard lately to take care of my body.  I’ve been working out almost every day and have been trying to eat as healthy as I can (hummus & veggies all day erry day).  Why am I going to throw away all of that meticulous dieting and exercise to get hammered?  Nada mas senorita.  I need to take care of my body if I expect it to perform.
  2. Climbing: Probably the worst part of this morning was the fact that I was going to go to the climbing gym and ended up bailing on my partner.  After I threw up the first time, I was pretty convinced I was still going to go. I thought, “Ok, that’s over with, now I’m just gonna sleep for a couple hours then rally.”  But then I kept vomiting and I had to text my partner and tell him I wasn’t going to make it.  Luckily he was super chill and we are climbing tomorrow but I would like to hold myself to higher standards than that.  I hate flakey people, and so I try really hard to be reliable.  But that sucks that I couldn’t go climbing because I was too hungover from the night before.  That is totally unacceptable.  If I want to be serious about training, I can’t be bailing like that.
  3. My mind: Being drunk… is not that fun.  I’ve gotten myself in some pretty awkward situations lately because I wasn’t thinking clearly.  I feel bad about myself when I get too hammered because I feel like I’m pulling a “drunkest girl at the party” (even though I’m probs not).  I feel needy and incompetent and totally dependent.  No me gusta.  That’s not me, and I know that’s not me.

So I just need to chill and focus on my mind, body, climbing, and school.  Alcohol is an obstacle for accomplishing any of those things and that is why I’m done with it.

…and reality sets in.

skool + climbing = HARD

well, no shit

17 credits.  Lab job.  Outdoors club officer.  CCS regional coordinator. Social lyf?

Not to mention… I NEED A JOB WHEN I GRADUATE!!!

All combined with the fact that I want to climb a shyt ton of V8s and V9s this season.  Is it possible?!

My life must be planned down to a T.

Training schedule? Check

Coffee maker? Check

kkkkkk LES GO 

Angst Filled Diary Post

Where I’m at with climbing right now.

1. Physical

Right now, I feel pretty weak… I don’t know if it’s because I was climbing routes all summer and I’m in route shape vs. bouldering shape, or if it’s because I spent a lot less time in the gym and maybe just lost pure power and strength.  Which is really, really frustrating.  I definitely think I need to take a step back and think about where I’m at physically before I spend the money to take trips.  Obviously the trip this weekend was awesome.. I’m really glad I got to see the gorge which is something I wanted to do all summer, but it’s a bummer to not fucking send anything!!! I guess I can’t really expect much… it’s summer and conditions aren’t great, but it’s really hard to change my mentality.  When I put in so much effort to go out for a weekend, I want to send!  And there have been many weekends where I got out, got shown a bunch of new climbs, and I just did them.  And this weekend I got shown a bunch of climbs and I didn’t do any of them!! It sucks!  It was fun to see everyone else crush and be super strong, but I was not where I wanted to be physically this weekend.

2. Mental

What do I want out of this semester of climbing?  Obviously I want to get strong, but how realistic is that?  I can train, and I will train, but at the same time, climbing is my stress relief.  It’s my outlet and I want it to be fun.  So it’s like I have to find this balance between setting goals to get stronger and not ruining climbing for myself.  The thing is, if I were in a place where I had a gym nearby, or had a lot of outdoor climbing around, I could train a lot but it’d also easy to be like, “I don’t want to go hard today, I just wanna have fun.” and it wouldn’t affect my climbing game.  But where I’m at right now, if I just want to have fun at the gym, it means I’m not getting stronger that day and it’s probably going to be another week until I back in the gym… and in the meantime, does that mean I’m just getting weaker? But that’s reality of it and I just have to accept that.  I’m in school for another year, and I’m already graduating a fully year early… I can’t really ask much more from myself.  I honestly have no clue what my goals are, but I also don’t want to think about it because I don’t feel like putting the pressure on myself to figure out what I want right now.