Day 47

Hopefully this recovery diary will be done soon!  I went to Boone this past weekend and my finger felt great!! (well, it didn’t hurt a ton and was minimally sore the mornings after climbing..so progress!)

Though the weather was not ideal, I definitely worked out some beta on a bunch of climbs that will hopefully go down once it gets cold. Just gotta remember some microbetaz

  • Bitch — JAM YO KNUCKLE IN THAT SLOT!  I really stuffed my back three fingers in the slotty thing and got some friction with my knuckle on my index finger that made the start hold feel reeeeal solid
  • AHR — go as static as possible on the first move until the last moment when popping to the slopey crimp rail
  • Doomed to Obscurity — front three fingers in the pocket before the throw to the sloper.  Put foot on the right side of the little foot rail

Upcoming for this week:

  • Maybe go to Richmond tomorrow for a gym sesh
  • Going to Chapel Hill Wednesday night, probably try and onsight a bunch at TRCizzle on Thursday
  • Moving into new apartment Friday, so not sure if I will make it out this weekend but I would like to go to the New for my birfdaaay!
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Day 41

7/22/14: 2 miles, 17:42 min, 8:59 min/mi

Day 40

Great weekend at the New! Finger feels pretty decent and I feel like I made some serious progress with my route climbing.  More confidence, more endurance, and more mileage under my belt.  I sent my first 12a last weekend and sent 2 more this weekend and a 12b as well, though I think the grade was a bit soft.  

Climbs to go back to:

  • Pyscho wrangler 12a, at Cotton Top
  • Animal Logic 12b, at Summersville 

And then my previous climbs at Kaymoor since I haven’t returned there.

Potentially headed back this weekend, we shall see!

Day 36

I climbed yesterday and my fingy hurt 😦 😦 😦 this is so frustrating!!!! I am headed to the New today for three days and then I think I will take 5+ days off, just to let my body rest as a whole and also my finger (obviously).  I’ll see if I do anything next weekend or not.  The weekend of my birfday (so close yay!) I’m going to Chapel Hill to see my grandmother, but I think I will take a trip to one of the TRC’s and try and onsight a bunch of boulder problems and see how that goes in order to decide if I’m going to compete in Beat the Heat this year.  I think I will totally suck because I haven’t been bouldering.  And my finger hurts and I don’t want to push it.  But that’s a bit away and I’ll decide later.  

 

mer.

Day 33

Climbed at the New this weekend, sent my first 5.12 wooo! But still feeling weak as hell on routes.  I just get pumped outta my mind and can’t move!  I also have some work to do on my lead head and just climbing head in general.  Finger feels just ooook, iced it and massaged it a lot today.  I want to take a break from sport and go bouldering but I just don’t know if that’s a good idea at this point.  It might just be best to stick to routes.

Went on a run with one of my roommates today… got smoked.  I’m pretty slow and the loop we did was a lot of uphill running and it was HARD!  I walked the last quarter/half mile but stopped recording on my app when I started walking so:

7/14/14: 3.31 miles; 31:31 minutes; 9:30 min/mile

Here’s the split breakdown which is pretty hilarious:

Mile 1: 8:17

Mile 2: 9:01

Mile 3: 9:54

3.33: 12:49 min/mile

I will do some more runs on my own before I try that again…

Day 30

I climbed routes both on Monday and yesterday.  Finger was a little sore after Monday but after icing and massaging my finger on Tuesday it felt pretty good so I went back.  My finger felt good today except when I started pipetting for work… for some reason that kind of hurts it 😦 but it feels ok now and I am taking today and tomorrow off so it should be fine.

Not sure where I am headed to this weekend, which is frustrating.  Nothing feels better than scrounging around for partners!  It sucks not having a consistent partner/crew that I know I can go out climbing with so I always end up texting a bunch of people to see who responds…   One more year of this bullshet and then hopefully it’ll get better once I move elsewhere where there are actually climbers where I live and I can get to know them and b frenz and climb.

I wish it could be Boone’s weather at the New, but the New is in the 90s this weekend and Boone is much cooler.

Anyways, I’ve been actually saving my runs on the Map My Run app and I figure I should write them down here.

7/1 22:15, 2.3 miles, 9:44 min/mi

7/7 13:11, 1.3 miles, 9:48 min/mi

7/10 23:09, 2.7 miles, 8:39 min/mi

Day 27

Finger feels good for the most part. I think routes are the way to go!

I have a list of climbs already that I have to go back to at the New, woop woop

  • Sancho Belige, 11c –got all the moves but this thing is pumpy and very beta intensive, I know I can do eet though just need to build some more endurance
  • Disturbance, 11d– so close on the onsight ahhh! This one should go quick next time I’m on it
  • Lost Souls, 12a– totally doable except for one move that is huge for me, apparently there is a way to do it static, short girl style, so I need to go back and try out that beta.  No other move even felt close to a stopper though

Day 21

Finger moves fine without pain, generally feels normal, but hurts when I massage it with my other finger/put pressure on it.  Massage ring doesn’t hurt though.