Day 20

I went to the New River Gorge this past weekend and climbed a handful of moderates.  My finger hurts and I’m sad.  It’s more of a dull, sore feeling than a sharp pain but it still sucks.  I iced it and splinted it last night and have been massaging it like crazy.  I wanted to go back to the New this weekend but I really don’t know if that’s going to happen if my finger doesn’t feel better over the next couple days.  I’m not really sure what to do… I think more rest would be ideal but that makes me sad.  But I am supposed to go to Boone the weekend of the 12th so maybe I should just chill until then.  I don’t know THIS SUXXXXX

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Day 13

Climbed routes at Peak yesterday.  Probably did harder things than I should have but it’s hard to restrain myself when I paid $16 and drove and hour there and back.  Finger hurt a little bit yesterday, more of the same sore kind of feeling.  I massaged it a lot between climbs and that made it feel better.  Iced and splinted it last night, massaging all day today.  I just want it to be betterrrr 😦

Day 12

Climbed some routes yesterday, finger feels just OK.  I’m not sure when I can start pulling harder, but I’m nervous to try.

Day 9

I climbed for about an hour yesterday.  Finger felt good beforehand, but felt a little sore between climbs.  It didn’t hurt while I was climbing which is good and it feels fine today. The main difference I feel is when I kind of massage around the pulley.  Right now and before climbing, there is no pain when I apply pressure to it, but between climbs it does hurt a little bit.  I didn’t climb too long and didn’t go above V3, I just did some laps and link-ups.  

I got my wisdom teeth out today so I won’t be climbing for at least 5 days, maybe longer.  I want to go somewhere for 4th of July since it is a Friday and it will be a long weekend.  Right now I am thinking Boone, maybe just to do some easier classics.  But I will have to see how my finger is feeling and if plans work out.

Now I’m just taking drugs, watching Netflix, and massaging my finger woooo.

Day 6

Finger feels pretty good.  Splinted it last night, massaging all day today.

On another note, I did 75 pull ups yesterday because I skipped two days.  I should do 75 again today.  

Day 5

I lied, I climbed yesterday.  I was volunteering for Divisionals and got asked to forerun the finals routes so of course I did! annnnnd obviously they were hard and I tried hard and that was bad and my finger kind of hurt.  But it’s ok I’m off for a full week or more because I’m getting my wisdom teeth out this week. 

I iced it and splinted it for the night and will be massaging it all day.

Day 1

I climbed at the Outdoor Rec Center wall yesterday and my finger didn’t hurt at all while I was climbing.  I stayed on easier things, didn’t push myself at all, but there were a few problems where I did put a decent amount of pressure on my pinky (on a few pinches) and that didn’t hurt either, so that’s good! My finger feels pretty OK today… maybe a teeny tiny bit tweaky when I woke up but it feels great now.  I am just going to go to the regular gym for the next couple of days and possibly climb on Saturday if my dad and I go to Chapel Hill.  I’ll stop in at Progression and do some easy thangs again and see how it feels!

In the meantime, I started a “challenge” with my roommates where we are going to do 50 pull ups a day for 30 days, with one break allowed once in the span of a week/7 days.  Kit, Eddie, and I are doing 50, Mikey 25, Kevin maybe 20? and Mike 10 (yay for boy roommates!). So I have done 50 pull ups every day for the past 3 days and that’s good.  I’ve been doing them with my legs at 90 degrees, except for yesterday because my abs hurt.  I might try to up it to 60 next week because I was doing them in sets of 5 but I was behind yesterday and ended up doing 2 sets of 15 then 2 sets of 10 without a problem.  I dunno!  Maybe 75! Pull ups! 

Yayayayayaya time to acupressure ring all day at werk

Recovery Diary

I have taken a solid 3 weeks off for my finger and now the time has come for me to begin climbing on it again.  Climbing lightly.  There is no calculated and precise regimen for this phase… it’s simply how I feel while I’m climbing and how I feel after.

I climbed on my finger a little bit on Saturday and I thought it felt bad the day after so my original train of thought was to take another 2 weeks off.  However, my friend sent me a few articles that changed my mind.

http://www.onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2012/03/injuries-problem-with-lay-off.html

http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/2010/05/pulley-injuries-article.html

I think taking another 2 weeks off wouldn’t really do much for my finger.  So today I’m going to go to the Rec wall and climb some V0s for maybe 20 minutes and see how that feels.

Also I think splinting my finger over night makes it feel tweaky, so I’m going to stop doing that.

And my acupressure ring came, so I shall be massaging away.

Ok, begin recovery!